Bike chain lube is an unglamorous necessity to keep moving parts moving. But for obsessives, bike chain lube transcends its utilitarian function and becomes the bike-maintenance equivalent of a fine wine, where quality is of the utmost importance.
Without Bike Chain Lube: A dry chain will let out an ear-piercing squeal and won’t shift smoothly. Eventually, it will rust, and it could snap midride.
Lube It: Soak a clean rag with degreaser, such as Mud off MO-94 or any good quality degreaser with your bike in a work stand, grasp the chain with the rag as you backpedal to remove grime from the rollers and side plates. Repeat until the chain is clean. Then, dry the chain using a clean rag and the same technique you used to clean it. To apply bike chain lube, deposit a drop on the top of each link as you slowly backpedal for a few revolutions, so the lube has a chance to work its way in. Wipe off excess lube—if you don’t, it can attract more dirt to your chain. Use a light, waterproof lube such as Muc-off, Finish Line and Loop Lube For wet-weather conditions always prefer wet lube or All-weather Lube.
Never Use: Motor oil or Mobil oil —it contains acids and particles of metal that can compromise a chain’s strength and cause it to wear more quickly.
Without Bike Chain Lube: Engagement and disengagement won’t be as smooth as it should be, and pedals may become impossible to remove from your bike.
Lube Them: If your clipless pedal system has a visible spring (the area where your cleats engage into the pedal), apply a drop of your chain lube every few rides to keep it rust-free and working well. Spread a coat of grease, such as Muc-off bio grease or Park tool PPF grease on pedal threads every time you install pedals so they’ll actually budge the next time you go to remove them.
Never Use: Grease on the pedal springs. You’ll gum up the mechanism.
Without Bike Chain Lube: Cables won’t glide through housings as smoothly, which negatively affects shifting performance, and they’ll be more prone to rusting in wet conditions.
Lube Them: Shift the rear derailleur to the easiest gear/largest cog (front derailleur to the hardest gear/big chainring). Then, without pedaling, click your shifter to upshift to the hardest gear/smallest cog (or the small chainring in front). This will result in a nice amount of cable slack, and on some bikes, allow you to slip the housing out of the slotted cable stops and coat the cables thoroughly. Apply a few drops of chain lube to your fingertips and slide them along the length of the cable until it’s covered in a thin film. Wipe dirt from your cables, paying special attention to where they run through the cable guide underneath the bottom bracket. Use the same lube and method of application on your brake cables.
Never Use: WD-40—it’s a solvent, not a lubricant. If your cables and housing are so gummed up that you need a solvent, you’re better off replacing them than performing makeshift maintenance on them.
Without Cycle Chain Lube: Not only will you go crazy trying to track down the cause of that annoying squeak (commonly caused by neglected derailleur pulleys), but the pulleys also won’t rotate freely.
Lube Them: Wipe off any built-up grime on your derailleur pulleys with a clean rag and degreaser. Then apply a small drop of bike chain lube, such as Muc-off ceramic or all-weather lube, to the bearings at the center of the pulley. Backpedal a few revolutions, then use a clean rag to wipe off any lube that didn’t work its way into the bearings. It can get messy, so use sparingly.
Never Use: Grease—it’s way too heavy for this application, and it will gunk up pulley bearings and attract dirt.
So, Riders, that's all for now i hope this article will help you and you get value, please share with your other fellow riders and also share your chain lube tips and hacks for same which helps to create more useful blogs like this and if you have any issue, please let us know we will love to help you.
Meanwhile RIDE HARD & RIDE SAFE, see you another blog and thanks for your valuable time.